The Best Baingan Bharta

Put the whole eggplant directly over a moderate flame on a gas stove or grill. Cook, turning it every couple of minutes with metal tongs, until charred all over and the flesh is completely soft, about 10 minutes.

Wait until the eggplant is cool enough to handle then peel off the skin and discard--don’t worry if little bits of skin remain. Remove and discard the stem, coarsely chop the flesh and set aside.

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring and scraping the bottom of the skillet occasionally, until softened with just a hint of color, about 10 minutes. Add the chiles and cook, stirring occasionally, until the raw smell goes away, about 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and 1/2 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 8 minutes. Add the eggplant and cilantro and cook, stirring occasionally, until well mixed and the flavors have melded, about 3 minutes. Adjust salt to taste and serve hot.